https://nextventuremotorsports.com/products/jku-rear-corner-armor🎥 Watch the Install

Grab a coffee and hit play—the full walkthrough is below.

Video covers: removing factory flare/inner, installing the steel bracket with eight rivnuts, setting the spacer (or corner armor), mocking up the flare, marking the hidden fasteners, drilling, installing squeeze nuts, and final torque order.

What We’re Installing

• Product: Aluminum Highline Fender Flares — JK Wrangler

• Fitment: 2007–2018 Jeep Wrangler JK (2-door JK & 4-door JKU)

• System Notes: Spacer fills a 3/16" gap when not running corner armor; designed to work with our inner fenders.

Not running corner armor? Use the provided spacer to fill the 3/16" gap against the body for a tight, factory-plus look.

Tools & Hardware (from the video)

• Drill bits: step up sizes, with 25/64" for rivnuts

• Rivnut / squeeze-nut tool (inline tool preferred for straight pulls)

• Allen keys: 5/32" for button/socket heads

• Hardware: button head bolts (with/without washers as shown), socket heads for body rivnuts

• Shop basics: safety glasses, center punch, masking tape, paint/marker

Finish tip: Paint the steel bracket before final assembly for corrosion protection.
Aluminum edges: We generally don’t push painting bare aluminum; if you want a raw look without oxidation build-up, we recommend a metal protectant like Sharkhide.

Step-By-Step Highlights (watch & follow)

1. Remove factory flare & inner. Clean the mounting area.

2. Drill for rivnuts: four holes front + four rear (total eight). Deburr.

3. Set rivnuts: use the inline tool to pull square and straight.

4. Bracket mock-up: bolt the steel bracket on loosely (ignore jig holes—they aren’t used).

5. Spacer or corner armor:

   • Running corner armor (3/16" aluminum or steel)? Spacer isn’t needed.

   • No armor? Install the spacer with the two Allen bolts; leave loose for adjustment.

6. Flare mock-up: use button heads with washers to hang the flare; keep everything loose.

7. Mark “hidden” holes: dab a paint pen on the tip of your Allen key, poke through the lip to transfer marks.

8. Drill body panel holes: center-punch; step-drill carefully—don’t “send it” into the body. Tape the area to protect paint.

9. Install squeeze nuts / rivnuts in the body where marked.

10. Final install & torque pattern: reinstall the flare and hardware; tighten top-center outward to set the lines.

Pro Tips from the Shop

• Alignment first, torque last. Keep hardware loose until the flare sits naturally; then tighten.

• Straight pulls = happy rivnuts. Inline tools reduce off-axis pulls that can spin inserts.

• Control the drill. Step up bit sizes to avoid paint flake and body dings.

• Mind the jig holes. They’re for manufacturing, not installation.

Quick Chapters (for scrubbing)

• 0:00 Remove factory flare/inner

• 0:35 Drill & set 8 rivnuts (bracket)

• 1:30 Bracket mock-up (jig holes explained)

• 2:15 Spacer vs. corner armor (3/16")

• 3:00 Flare mock-up (leave loose)

• 3:40 Paint-pen + Allen marking trick

• 4:30 Drill body, install squeeze nuts

• 5:20 Final tighten (top-center out)

• 6:00 Wrap-up & fitment notes

(Adjust timestamps to the final video as needed.)

Fitment FAQ

Will this work on JK2 and JKU?
Yes—fits 2007–2018 JK two-door and four-door.

Do I need corner armor?
No. If not running armor, use the included 3/16" spacer to fill the body gap.

What inner fenders do I use?
These flares are designed to pair with our inner fenders (JK version coming—mount points are already provisioned in the steel bracket).

Do I paint the aluminum?
Not required. Many customers prefer the bare-metal aluminum look; use a protectant if you want to minimize oxidation.

Ready to Build Yours?

• Shop the JK Aluminum Highline Fender Flares → https://nextventuremotorsports.com/products/jk-aluminum-high-line-fender-flares-rear

• Pair with Corner Armor → https://nextventuremotorsports.com/products/jku-rear-corner-armor

Have install questions? Drop a comment below or email us—our team’s happy to help.